Last updated: September 2026. Prices and stock were checked on the day of writing.
Ask a Nigerian aunty what she is wearing to the naming ceremony, the Sunday lunch and the flight home, and there is a good chance the answer to all three is a bubu. It is the most forgiving silhouette in West African dress: one wide, floor length gown that flatters almost every body and still looks dressed up.
This guide covers what a bubu actually is, the styles you will see this season, how to get the size right when you are buying online, and where to buy one made by hand in Nigeria.
What a bubu gown is
A bubu (also spelt boubou) is a loose, flowing gown cut wide through the body with generous sleeves. There is no waistband and no zip. It drops from the shoulders to the ankle and moves with you rather than holding you in.
The shape comes from the grand boubou worn across West Africa for centuries. In Nigeria today it is mostly made in Ankara, the bold wax print cotton, which is why you will hear "Ankara bubu" far more than any other name.
It is not the same as a kaftan, although the two get mixed up constantly. A kaftan is usually narrower and closer to the body. A bubu is deliberately wide, often cut from a single large panel of cloth, with the sleeves forming part of that width.
The bubu gown styles you will see this season
Butterfly or batwing bubu. The sleeves are cut as one continuous sweep from the shoulder to the hem, so when you lift your arms the gown opens out like wings. This is the most dramatic shape and the easiest to wear, because it hides nothing and fits everyone.
Embellished neckline bubu. A plainer cut with stones, beads or embroidery worked around the neck and down the centre front. This is the one to choose when you want it to read as an occasion outfit rather than something for home.
Panel bubu. Two or three contrasting prints joined in large blocks, usually a bold central medallion on the front. It photographs well, which is why it is so popular for weddings.
Bubu for weddings. For a wedding the fabric does the work. Guests are often asked to wear a shared fabric, known as aso ebi, and a bubu is one of the easiest shapes to make from it. If there is no shared fabric, go for a richer print or an embellished neckline and keep the accessories simple.
How to get the size right online
This is where most people go wrong, because a bubu does not size like a fitted dress.
Some bubus are sold as free size. The gown is cut so wide that one size covers a broad range of bodies. What matters then is the length. Check your height against the length the seller gives, and if you are petite or tall, ask for the exact shoulder to hem measurement before you order.
Others are sold in S to XXL. These still have a relaxed fit, but the chart is measured against your body, not the gown. Take your bust, waist and hip measurements over light clothing and choose the size that matches your largest measurement. If you fall between two sizes, take the larger one.
If you want a bubu cut to you, look for made to measure listings. You give your measurements at checkout and the gown is sewn to them. It costs more and takes longer, so order at least two to three weeks before the event and check the dispatch time on the listing.
Where to buy a bubu gown made in Nigeria
Every piece below is live on Sokofa, made by an independent Nigerian seller and checked on the day this guide was written.
Red and Navy Butterfly Bubu by NAISH, 75 GBP. A butterfly cut in premium cotton Ankara with a navy medallion panel down the front. Sold in S, M, L, XL and XXL against a body measurement chart, so it is one of the easiest to size from a distance.
Embellished Ankara Bubu Gown, 24 GBP. A free size bubu with a stone embellished panel down the centre front, at the neckline and across the sleeve edges, with slits at both sides. It comes in green or brown Ankara. Send the seller your bust, hip and height and they will confirm the length before it ships.
If you want the same easy, floor length feeling in a more fitted shape, these are close cousins:
Mustard Yellow Beaded Strap Maxi Dress, 180 GBP. Made to measure in 100 percent cotton, with beaded straps and a gathered peplum waist. A statement piece for a wedding guest.
Handwoven Akwete Two Piece Set, 45 GBP. A short sleeve top and full length skirt woven by hand in Akwete, Abia State. The pattern is woven into the cloth, not printed. UK sizes 8 to 16.
Lewa Button Down Maxi Dress, 53.99 GBP. A long button front maxi for when you want something neater than a bubu but just as comfortable.
You can see everything else in women's fashion from African makers. Shopping for the men in the family as well? Our guide to buba and sokoto covers the matching menswear.
How to wear a bubu
Keep everything else quiet. The print is the outfit, so pair it with simple flat sandals or low heels and one strong accessory: big earrings, a gele (head wrap) for a wedding, or a single statement necklace.
A bubu is worn loose. Resist the urge to belt it. If you want a little shape, choose a style with a softly gathered front or a tie at the back rather than cinching the waist.
For travel and long days, a free size bubu is hard to beat. It packs flat, does not crease much in cotton, and looks as good at the end of the day as it did at the start.
Buying from Sokofa
Sokofa is a UK marketplace for verified African artisans, most of them in Nigeria, Ghana and Kenya. Every seller goes through our Verified Seller Programme. Many pieces can be made to measure, the delivery cost for your address is shown at checkout before you pay, and we deliver worldwide. If something arrives damaged, wrong or not as described, report it within 48 hours of delivery and it gets put right.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a bubu and a kaftan
A bubu is cut very wide from the shoulders to the ankle, often from one large panel of cloth, with the sleeves forming part of that width. A kaftan is usually narrower and closer to the body. Both are loose, floor length gowns, but a bubu has far more volume.
Is a bubu gown free size
Many are. A free size bubu is cut wide enough to fit a broad range of bodies, so the length is what you need to check. Others are sold in S to XXL against a body measurement chart. The listing will tell you which.
What should I wear to a Nigerian wedding as a guest
A bubu is a safe and elegant choice. If the couple have chosen a shared fabric, known as aso ebi, wear that. If not, choose a rich Ankara print or an embellished bubu and add a gele or statement earrings.
How much does a bubu gown cost
On Sokofa, a free size Ankara bubu starts at around 24 GBP and a butterfly bubu in premium Ankara is around 75 GBP. Made to measure gowns cost more because they are sewn to your own measurements. Delivery is added at checkout and depends on your address.
Can I get a bubu gown delivered to the UK
Yes. Sokofa delivers worldwide, including the UK, with the delivery cost for your address shown at checkout before you pay.
How do I choose my size for a bubu
Measure your bust, waist and hip over light clothing. For a sized bubu, match the chart to your largest measurement and size up if you are between two. For a free size bubu, check the gown length against your height and ask the seller for the exact length if you are petite or tall.
